Parts & Tools

Below I have a list of the parts & tools I used during my PrintNC build.

Please note that these are just a suggestion of things to incorporate into your build, and that there are many ways to complete a DIY project like the PrintNC. These parts would also work well for your DIY CNC, even if it isn’t a PrintNC.

Lastly, please know that all links below are affiliate links and I earn a small commission on any purchases, at no additional cost to you (helps pay for this fancy website, right?)

As previously mentioned, cutting fluid is a must have when drilling and tapping steel. I also found that a slow RPM on the drill helped a lot when making your holes.
Allen wrenches are great, except for when you have about 100 fasteners to tighten. These worked great on my Ryobi electric screwdriver (don’t laugh) and saved me a ton of time. Would also easily work on a 1/4” impact, but watch your trigger finger.
Countersink bits are kind of optional, but they were a big help in cleaning up any holes that I drilled in the steel. The combo taps have a countersink end on them, but for any other holes you drill, a countersink bit is nice to clean things up.
Parallel Breakout Board. I have since moved to the Mesa 7i96, however this is the board I was using before I made the switch.
USB to RS485 adapter. I would HIGHLY recommend this for VFD speed control. My LinuxCNC config is using this and it makes controlling the VFD very easy.
You probably already have a ratchet set, however this mini set was a life saver when assembling the X axis beam to the Y rollers. Clearance is tight and this set made things a lot easier.
21mm collet wrench. Having a dedicated collet wrench that lives next to the machine is nice to have for tool changes. You’ll also need the 30mm wrench if you decide to get these.
30mm collet wrench. See: 21mm collet wrench.
This is the signature “Projects by Brian” blue PLA. (Just kidding, but maybe someday)
Momentary start/stop push buttons for your control box. I'm using the 110v LED version of these, however I have since found this 24v LED version on Amazon.
Your classic “Oh $#*&” button. It is a little on the small side, however does size really matter?
Primary cutoff switch. This kills all power to the control box, and thus the entire machine. Your 20A outlet will go behind this. Sort of optional, but definitely nice to have.
Aluminum din rail for the control box. Mounts to your back plane and components easily mount to it (if din rail mountable, of course).
Wire way to hide all of your wires and make everything pretty.
Meanwell 24v power supply. Used for control circuits in my build.
Ground bar. Make sure anything and everything is grounded if you’re working with 110v. Can be easily cut into 1/2 or 1/3’s if you need a couple.
20A rated power cable going into my control box.
The cable I got for the spindle was too large for the connector that came on it. I did have to drill/tap new holes for this to fit on top of the spindle. Not a big deal after drilling/tapping so many for the machine, but worth mentioning.
10A DC Circuit breaker for stepper drivers. IMPORTANT: Put your X & Z drivers on one breaker, and Y1 and Y2 drivers on another breaker. This way when one trips, it kills both Y drivers and your machine doesn’t try to rip itself apart.
Pass through USB connections. Totally optional unless you end up having a control box like mine where you pass through your USB to the Parallel BoB.
Pass through parallel connections. These let me pass my parallel cable through the enclosure to the breakout board.
Parallel cable. Goes from your PC to your parallel BoB. If you have to ask why you need this, then we might have to have a talk.
This RS232 adapter has been reported to work with the newer Yalang VFD that is shipping with newer kits.
22AWG, 4 conductor shielded cable for extending stepper motor wiring. See the wiki for recommended grounded configuration (only grounded on one end, the control box)
NPN inductive limit switches. Used to home all axis. NOTE: The Ali Express kit comes with inductive limit switches now (and are also a different size than these), so if you ordered that kit, you probably don't need these.
Allen Bradley Contactor. This is one of those parts that is particular to your build. I realize this is unavailable for purchase anymore (from Amazon), but still wanted to list it for documentation purposes.
VFD/Spindle kit. This is included with most Ali Express kits, however if you prefer to order from Amazon, then this is it.
Auto/Manual switch I’m using for solenoid & shop vac control.
24v Air solenoid I’m using for compressed air control.
Air blast system. Can also be used for misting but I’m only using for air.
Drivers will come with the Ali Express kit, however if you prefer to order from Amazon then these are the ones I’m using.
Ferrule kit. I used these with the terminal blocks to extend the stepper driver wiring.
I used these terminals for power distribution in the electronics enclosure. For the sake of transparency, these really weren't the greatest to use. They worked just fine, however I wouldn't blame you for choosing other distribution options (such as Wagos or din rail terminal blocks).
Water pump I’m using for the spindle. Pumps water.
New connectors for the water pump to adapt them to blue hosing.
Water hose for extending length to spindle. Available in different colors, but we all know that blue is the best.
Having some extra collets on hand is nice for easy tool changes.
These are, in my opinion, the best bits for getting started. I cut most of my aluminum with these, and they also do great in wood.
Chamfer bit for getting extra fancy, and also removing burrs from parts.
1” Spoilboard surfacing bit. Works great for tramming your spindle and, well, surfacing your spoilboard.
Keeps your bits organized. Could also make your own which would be a good early project!
T-track system for your spoilboard. Mine are placed roughly 6” apart.
T-track hold down clamps. I had 3D printed clamps up until I tried aluminum clamps. You can really crank these down.
Grease gun for, well, greaseing your bearings. I did one pump in each bearing.
Grease. See: Grease gun.
M6 grease fittings. Pro tip: after greasing your fittings, unscrew the end of the hose nozzle to relieve pressure. Then you probably won’t break one, and probably won’t need these. Probably.